
If you already love Yotam Ottolenghi's cooking you will not find a better version at Nopi.

There's admirable passion and ambition, but the cost, combined on this occasion with a snippy waitress, uneven dish pacing and confusion over the booking, left us disappointed

To me, the meal was a near-perfect revelation

Think of Marie Antoinette attending to her freshly-washed sheep at Le Petit Trianon in the grounds of Versailles, Her ultimate fate, as we all recall, was not a happy one

Our two fish dishes, 'Pan-fried sea bass, turmeric potatoes, rasam' and 'Grilled mackerel, fresh coconut, mint and peanut salad' were good but uninspiring

In fact I can't quite imagine when I'll find the right occasion for a second visit

I'd love to make Nopi a regular haunt, but for that to happen, I need to join the ranks of the stealthily wealthy, like my impeccably tasteful table neighbours

The meal was fabulous. I could not fault it for the cooking and for its sheer likeability factor; I believe it is poised to be overbooked for many a cold night in the months ahead