Eating downstairs allows diners to see the kitchen, where trainees on Oliver's admirable Apprentice Programme create the likes of Sicilian fisherman's stew or assemble magnificent platters of antipasti
Weekend brunches, when the huge windows provide a lovely light, are a treat here
You can eat incredibly well here for not very much money, and is yet more evidence that Italian food in London is reaching something approaching maturity
The chefs hail from Morocco and Tunisia, and the subtlety of the aromatic dishes shows their homelands' cuisines in their best light
And it acted like a sponge, soaked through with a thin honey and lightly citrus sauce. It was utterly gorgeous!
The meaty Soif is by far the best restaurant in the strip of eateries on this side of Battersea Rise.
But the food is good, which is what the whole thing's meant to be about
Soif's food menu is a brief page, changing daily.
Lunch ended, however, on a high note, which had little to do with novelty
And if flavours are in yer face, prices are anything but
Anywhere in London, Soif would be a great restaurant but given the standards of the area it's little short of miraculous.
Battersea Rise has come a long way since my short-trouser days at No 8
I'd go so far as to say it was one of the best things I've eaten all year