The menu is simple and, in the main, well done

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A starter salad of avocado, papaya, palmitos (palm hearts), grapefruit and toasted cashews had a wonderfully tangy lime and chilli dressing

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Aside from the fish and roasts, highlights are the pies, all-day breakfasts and puddings - all made using top-quality ingredients

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Save room for dessert!

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As the name suggests, the menu here is a robust affair

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It's fun and simple and enjoyable, and I'd come again in a flash

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Perhaps because there’s really nothing to say, other than: 'splendid, splendid, just what you might have hoped'

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Reflecting on my Sunday lunch at Brawn, I think I fell in love with the food – a long-lasting, cuddly kind of love.

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If it opened on my doorstep, I’d use it a lot; I certainly wouldn’t – and won’t – make the great pilgrimage across town.

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Wines by the glass chosen and also suggested were revelations

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The fabulous food - and bar that foie, I truly thought every single dish was exceptional - isn't the only star at Brawn

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The food is restraint, but in its simplicity, one is likely to find delicious beauty

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Go now

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It was a perfectly OK evening, but left you wondering if – as with Brawn – some odd decisions had been made at the planning stage

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And although it wasn't apparent why a prawn cocktail had to be 'deconstructed', it was delicious nonetheless

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You won’t be disappointed

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"I'm a woman," she said, "and I cannot eat pork ribs or pig's trotter and then a steak." She had a point

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If you do hit unlucky, though, the list of bourbons, and related cocktails could be a source of much consolation

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Overall? You can sum Tramshed up in three words: chicken and steak

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Tramshed ranks among the most thrilling and adorable London newbies since Heston Blumenthal’s Dinne

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Tramshed does a few dishes well, but it might not be to everyone's taste.

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But it’s not brilliant and, for this money, I want brilliant

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Desserts were good: a spiced apple pie served with custard, and a delicate cheesecake, whose chocolate ripples had an espresso-ish bite

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But the dedication to home-grown ingredients, free-range meat and responsibly caught seafood is admirable, and the kitchen produces solidly rendered dishes.

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The Benugo chain is certainly versatile. From humble beginnings as a sandwich bar, they now pop up in many other prime locations

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The atmosphere was winningly discreet, with a hint of whispered assignations, but the food disappointed

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Mains of lamb chops, steak and pan-fried duck breast were robust and generous, but overwrought sauces and marinades worked against the meats

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