Eating downstairs allows diners to see the kitchen, where trainees on Oliver's admirable Apprentice Programme create the likes of Sicilian fisherman's stew or assemble magnificent platters of antipasti
The chefs hail from Morocco and Tunisia, and the subtlety of the aromatic dishes shows their homelands' cuisines in their best light
And it acted like a sponge, soaked through with a thin honey and lightly citrus sauce. It was utterly gorgeous!
the menu veers from the Deep South to smart Italian, but - despite this muddle - execution is very sound.
But a promising start for the place that, on its initial form, would be our top tip for that last decent British meal before you set off for Paris
the kitchen has a commendable strength to dash out some very fine dishes, and now I appreciate the lengthy-ness of the menu as I can go back and try some more..
Places like this are a gift to write about, if not necessarily one to share... Karpo is truly a bizarre little (big) place.
Karpo is a rare beast in that it’s far nicer than you expect
Quibbles aside, at well under £20 a dish, Karpo has, pound for pound, a very decent little kitchen
Friendly staff and the optimistic energy of the operation bring into reality some of that renaissance of King's Cross
there's a very good chance you'll come away happy.