But we've never had such good turbot: grilled over charcoal and served on the bone, it was succulent and tasted of both the sea and flame
Slightly charred on the outside, red in the middle, it was – as one would hope from the self-proclaimed steak specialists – near perfect
Sides were unusually good, too; Jansson's Temptation, a Swedish potato gratin with anchovies, worked well with both the steak and the turbot
Make sure you arrive hungry
You won’t want to leave and when you do, you’ll begin thinking about when you can come back
This was one hell of an indulgence, one simplest fantasy of all beef-lovers on the plate.
Bring your friends instead, grab a hunk of prime rib, and settle down for a dose of the meat sweats
Hawksmoor Seven Dials is that rarest of things: an instant classic
One day we’ll actually return for the steaks but what we had was excellent.
Hawksmoor is expensive, but you get a great meat-filled experience
The chop was not large, but it was notably succulent – part of a plate which was pretty much perfect for lunch
In contrast, the wine bar offers no proper pews and does simpler snacks: crab on toast, Neal's Yard cheeses, Italian charcuterie
Ox tongue, braised and fried into crisp little fritters, with a dab of salsa verde; Welsh rarebit so fine it made us forgive them for serving us cheese on toast when we were paying for a babysitter
The pungent aroma from the perfectly roasted fowl (with its head intact) was mediated by the milky note from the bread sauce
Which of course, in many ways, it has
The menu is reassuringly straightforward, but speckled with luxury ingredients such as lobster, truffle and foie gras
But you’ll leave thinking only of wonderful, wonderful steak.
It is all a matter of personal preference really, and to be quite honest, these cuts of beef are at the very top end of what your money will buy, at least in London
That was the whole piece. Spectacular. And perfectly medium rare as we had requested
Is Goodman a bit of NY in LON? Pretty close
With a satisfied belch my converted companion and I stepped out into the night
But perhaps with enough pressure applied in the right places, the In'N'Out campaign may find unexpected success in the UK after all
It remains my favourite place to go for a steak dinner in the city, and I am very glad to say the Josper grilled, charcoalised, blood filled sensteaktions are still my paramour
Which makes it even more of a pity: the cooking here may be a cut above the rest, but the rest of the experience really needs sharpening up
Perfect comfort food for the cost-insensitive.
In other words, there’s fine steak to suit all tastes now, and more to come
Cut and come again
for those who can afford it, I think it, and CUT, are going to turn out be very welcome additions indeed.
If you are curious and have the opportunity to expense a business meal with associates, don’t even think about it, go here and satisfy your curiosity
My lingering impression is that a visit to Puck's latest steak house could give you a heart attack; but if it proves fatal, at least you'll have gone out in style
One can only marvel at the Austrian maestro's dedication to luxury, polish and skill in so many areas at once