
The chop was not large, but it was notably succulent – part of a plate which was pretty much perfect for lunch

In contrast, the wine bar offers no proper pews and does simpler snacks: crab on toast, Neal's Yard cheeses, Italian charcuterie

Ox tongue, braised and fried into crisp little fritters, with a dab of salsa verde; Welsh rarebit so fine it made us forgive them for serving us cheese on toast when we were paying for a babysitter

The pungent aroma from the perfectly roasted fowl (with its head intact) was mediated by the milky note from the bread sauce

Which of course, in many ways, it has